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Shirts Shifts and Sheets of Fine Linen 1st Edition by Pam Inder ISBN 1350252980 9781350252981

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Shirts Shifts and Sheets of Fine Linen 1st Edition Pam Inder Digital Instant Download

Author(s): Pam Inder
ISBN(s): 9781350252981, 1350252980
Edition: 1
File Details: PDF, 12.05 MB
Year: 2023
Language: english
SKU: EB-56762952 Category: Tag:

Shirts Shifts and Sheets of Fine Linen 1st Edition by Pam Inder – Ebook PDF Instant Download/Delivery: 1350252980, 9781350252981
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Product details:

ISBN 10: 1350252980
ISBN 13: 9781350252981
Author: Pam Inder

Shirts, Shifts and Sheets of Fine Linen explores how the jobs of the ‘seamstress’ evolved in scope, and status, between 1600-1900. In the 17th and early 18th centuries, seamstressing was a trade for women who worked in linen and cotton, making men’s shirts, women’s chemises, underwear and baby linen; some of these seamstresses were consummate craftswomen, able to sew with stitches almost invisible to the naked eye. Few examples of their work survive, but those that do attest to their skill. However, as the ready-to-wear trade expanded in the 18th century, women who assembled these garments were also known as seamstresses, and by the 1840s, most seamstresses were outworkers for companies or entrepreneurs, paid unbelievably low rates per dozen for the garments they produced, notorious examples of downtrodden, exploited womenfolk. Drawing on a range of original and hitherto unpublished sources, including business diaries, letters and bills, Shirts, Shifts and Sheets of Fine Linen explores the seamstress’s change of status in the 19th century and the reasons for it, hinting at the resurgence of the trade today given so few women today are skilled at repairing and altering clothes. Illustrated with 60 images, the book brings seamstresses into focus as real people, granting new insights into working class life in 18th- and 19th-century Britain.

Shirts Shifts and Sheets of Fine Linen 1st Table of contents:

1. The ‘Art and Mystery of Simistry’ in the Seventeenth and Eighteenth Centuries

  • Shirts

  • Smocks

  • Neckwear

  • Sleeves

  • Shifts

  • Drawers

  • Children’s Clothes

  • Household Linen

  • Conclusion

2. ‘Well-handed Needlewomen’

  • Economic Background

  • Earnings and Prices

  • Fabric Costs

  • Case Studies

  • The Job of the Seamstress

  • Apprentices

  • Wills

  • Conclusion

3. The Development of Ready-to-Wear

  • Joseph Ashley

  • Other Suppliers

  • Naval Supplies

  • Civilian Slops

  • Exports

  • Conclusion

4. ‘Linnen Drapery at Reasonable Rates’: 1720–1820

  • Fabric Prices

  • Apprentices

  • The Various Categories of Seamstresses

  • Case Studies

  • Conclusion

5. Slops and Slop-Sellers in the Eighteenth and Nineteenth Centuries

  • The Prevalence of Slop-Working

  • Slop-Workers

  • Examples of Ready-Made Clothing

  • Conclusion

6. ‘Seam and Gusset and Band’

  • ‘Grinders’ and ‘Sweaters’

  • The First Inquiries

  • The Causes of the Problem

  • The Response

  • Destitution

  • Henry Mayhew

  • Emigration

  • Conclusion

7. ‘Society Came and Shuddered’

  • The Sewing Machine

  • ‘Outcast London’

  • Initiatives to Help

  • The Select Committee on the Sweating System

  • More Initiatives and Inquiries

  • The Sweated Industries Exhibition and Its Aftermath

  • Conclusion

8. Bespoke Needlework

  • Lady FitzHerbert

  • Henry Mayhew – Again

  • Other Case Studies

  • Schools and Institutions

  • Shops

  • Servants and Others

  • Charity

  • Conclusion

9. Real Lives

  • Seamstresses in Whitechapel in 1851

  • The Cambridge Charity Organization Society

  • Lady Haberfield’s Almshouses

  • Conclusion

10. The Seamstress in Art and Literature

  • ‘The Song of the Shirt’

  • Images of Needlewomen

  • Cartoons and Magazines

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Tags: Pam Inder, Shifts, Sheets